Owner Sam Schiralli stands for a portrait at his restaurant Pizza Sam in Newport News, Virginia on Aug. 31, 2022. Schiralli's parents opened a pizza place in Brooklyn, New York in 1959, and eventually in Queens, New York in 1967, where Sam would help as a child. "I've been doing this since I could walk," Schiralli said. (Billy Schuerman/The Virginian-Pilot)

NEWPORT NEWS — Vinny and Sonny’s Shoppes on Warwick hinted recently that some old favorites are returning with the opening of a new pizza spot.

The teaser made me happy and my thoughts ran wild. My husband, Curtis, and I used to have weekly date nights at Luigi’s Italian Restaurant— owned by Vinny and Sonny Chiarello—in the same shopping strip. It had been closed for over six years and we missed the family atmosphere and food.

But Pizza Sam opened in August with some of Luigi’s dishes.

Owner Sam Schiralli Jr. couldn’t find what he considered a good slice in Newport News. He grew up in New York City making pizza. His father opened the original Pizza Sam in Queens over 50 years ago. Schiralli took over the New York operations when the patriarch passed away. He sold the business about a couple of years ago.

Pizza Sam offers pizzas by slice and whole pies, appetizers (garlic knots, baked clams oreganata), sausage rolls, stromboli, salads and more. Italian ices were listed on the menu but none were in the display case when I visited.

Pizza Sam in Newport News, Virginia as seen on Aug. 31, 2022. Owner Sam Schiralli’s parents opened a pizza place in Brooklyn, New York in 1959, and eventually in Queens, New York in 1967, where Sam would help out. (Billy Schuerman/The Virginian-Pilot)

Curtis and I drove 45 minutes to Pizza Sam in hopes of capturing the old dining experience. We were greeted like family and lunch exceeded our expectations.

Schiralli and Sonny Chiarello, who have been friends for more than 35 years, were prepping pizza behind the counter. Vinny arrived 30 minutes later to help prepare the cuisine, too. It was good to see familiar faces creating new memories.

I ordered the garlic knots as an appetizer and a sausage roll for my main course. Curtis got the stromboli. I also requested a supremo pizza for takeout. I was already thinking about what we’d have for dinner.

The bright dining room was accented with red metal tables and chairs. We sat nearby to watch the pizza making and to hear staff conversations.

Chiarello asked Schiralli if he had made the stromboli the way Chiarello taught him.

“Yeah, because we don’t make them in New York,” Schiralli said in a robust voice. We, along with several customers and the pizza guys, laughed.

Garlic knots at Pizza Sam in Newport News, Virginia (Rekaya Gibson)

The 12 garlic knots arrived at the table glistening with butter. I admired the specks of garlic and parsley on the golden bread balls. I tore one apart and revealed a hot soft interior. It tasted like the ones at Luigi’s. I dipped it in the oil sitting in the bottom of the foil pan. Nothing but yum came from our table.

I sampled the stromboli after Curtis showed me the layers of Italian meats, mozzarella cheese, onions and bell peppers. The same famous Sam’s pizza dough surrounded its juicy contents and made for a delicious bite. I knew it would be my go-to next time.

The sausage roll had a long link encased in bread (or pizza dough) with sauce and peppers. I eyeballed Curtis’ food while consuming mine. The roll tasted good but it didn’t take me to nirvana as the stromboli.

I ate a slice of pizza at room temperature later that day. I reheated the rest in a 400-degree oven (no preheating) for 10 minutes. The hot thin crust dangled as I guided it into my mouth. The toppings (pepperoni, sausage, onions, bell peppers and mushrooms) packed flavor and the tomato sauce was fresh. The crust maintained its texture and supported the cheesy goodness well. I loved it as much as the first slice.

Rekaya Gibson, rekaya.gibson@virginiamedia.com, 757-295-8809; on Twitter @gibsonrekaya

The spot: Pizza Sam, 15392 Warwick Blvd., Newport News.

Hours: 10:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday, noon to 8 p.m. Sunday

Order this: Garlic knots, any pizza, stromboli

Price: Appetizers and salads $5.99 to $13.99, pizza $16.95 to $24.99, pizza by the slice $3 to $4, stromboli $14.95

Contact: tinyurl.com/pizzasamva, 757-807-2742