Recipes from The British Cookbook by Ben Mervis | The Canberra Times | Canberra, ACT

2022-09-24 09:20:24 By : Ms. Mia Lin

Your digital subscription includes access to content from all our websites in your region. Access unlimited news content and The Canberra Times app. Premium subscribers also enjoy interactive puzzles and access to the digital version of our print edition - Today's Paper.

In The British Cookbook, author and food historian Ben Mervis takes readers on a mouth-watering culinary tour across England, Wales, Scotland, and Northern Ireland, revealing a cuisine as diverse as the landscape from which it originates.

Part cookbook, part cultural history, this deeply researched collection of 550 authentic recipes encompasses home-cooked classics, lesser-known and regional recipes, dishes deeply steeped in British history and iconic dishes with roots outside of the United Kingdom.

To make this beloved bar and picnic snack, soft-boiled eggs are wrapped in a layer of sausage meat and a dusting of breadcrumbs, then fried until golden and crispy. They should be sliced in half then either eaten on their own, or with English mustard and a little chutney. There are several competing theories on where the Scotch Egg originates, and curiously the one thing agreed on most is that this dish is not Scottish in origin. That much is inconsequential now, though, as the name association alone has made it a proud part of Scottish cuisine.

1. Heat the canola oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat, add the diced onion, thyme and rosemary and cook for seven to 10 minutes until softened. Transfer to a large bowl and leave to cool slightly, then add the sausage meat, minced pork shoulder, mustards and cider to the bowl. Season with a little salt and pepper and mix together. Cover with clingfim and leave in the fridge overnight.

2. The next day, weigh the sausage mix into five 100g balls and set them aside.

3. Have a large bowl of iced water nearby. Fill a medium saucepan two-thirds full of water and bring to the boil. Carefully add the eggs and cook for five and a half minutes exactly, before putting them into the bowl of iced water to cool. Alternatively, cool them under cold running water. Peel the eggs, then form the sausage mix around the eggs, while maintaining its approximate shape.

4. Put the egg yolks and milk into a shallow bowl and beat together, then put the flour into another shallow bowl, and the breadcrumbs into a third shallow bowl.

5. Cover each "egg" in the flour, followed by the egg wash and finally the breadcrumbs. Dip once more into the egg wash before covering with a second layer of the breadcrumbs. Set aside.

6. Preheat the oven to 180C. Line a large baking sheet with baking paper.

7. Heat enough vegetable oil for deep frying in a large, deep saucepan or deep fryer until it reaches 180C on a thermometer. Working in batches, carefully lower the Scotch eggs into the hot oil and deep-fry for three to five minutes until golden brown. Remove with a slotted spoon and arrange them on the prepared baking sheet. Bake in the oven for eight minutes. Eat warm or cold.

This traditional Scottish soup is made from a chicken and leek broth, with shredded chicken, leek and prunes. Some recipes include other vegetables, and rice or barley, but these additions can have the effect of drowning out other more subtle flavours.

As food writers Alan Davidson and Catherine Brown have both noted, the earliest mentions of cock-a-leekie date to the eighteenth century, but the soup's peculiar inclusion of prunes suggests it was the product of medieval times, when sweet ingredients were commonly a part of savoury dishes. Traditionally, cock-a-leekie called for a 'boiling fowl' or an old bird, but today a left-over roast chicken works just as well.

1 onion, cut into large slices (optional)

about 1.25kg leeks, thinly sliced, white and green parts separated, ends (bottoms) reserved

1-2 tbsp canola oil (optional)

175g prunes, pitted, halved or quartered

1. Using your fingers, separate the meat from the roast chicken carcass, leaving the skin and bones behind. Chop the meat into large bite-sized pieces and set the meat aside in a large bowl, covered with clingfilm, in the fridge for later.

2. Put the skin and bones into a stockpot, cover generously with about three litres water and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer, add the onion (if using), the ends (bottoms) of the leeks and the herbs and cook for at least one hour.

3. Once cooked, skim the scum off the top with a slotted spoon, then strain the liquid into a large bowl or container. Leave to rest for a while before skimming off most of the fat, setting aside around one tablespoon.

4. Put a large clean stockpot over a medium heat, add the reserved chicken fat or, if you prefer, use the canola oil, then add the whites of the leeks and fry gently for about five minutes. Add the reserved chicken stock and as much of the reserved chicken meat as you desire. You will by no means need to use all the meat, but it's nice to get a little of the chicken in every spoonful. Add the green leeks, then simmer for 30 minutes. The green of the leeks should still be a vibrant colour at the time of serving. About 10-15 minutes before the soup is ready, add the prunes. Just before serving, add the parsley and thyme and stir through before spooning into bowls.

Colcannon is made from a base of creamy mashed potatoes that have been stirred through with greens - typically cabbage or kale.

500g floury potatoes, such as Maris Piper or Yukon Gold, peeled and cut into large chunks

500g cabbage or curly kale, sliced

1/4 tsp ground nutmeg or mace (optional)

1. Put the potatoes into a large saucepan of salted water, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to medium and cook for 25 minutes, or until very tender.

2. Meanwhile, if your cabbage is not already cooked, fill a saucepan with about 2.5cm of water, bring to the boil and add the cabbage. Return to the boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 20-25 minutes until the cabbage is tender, topping up with hot water if necessary. If using kale, reduce the cooking time by five minutes.

3. If using the onion, melt half the butter in a small frying pan or skillet over a medium heat, add the onion and fry, stirring, for 10-12 minutes until golden brown. Set aside. (If you're not using onion, skip this step and stir all the butter into the cabbage with the cream (if using) in the next step.)

4. Drain the potatoes, return to the pan and mash well using a potato masher. Stir in the cabbage, onion (if using), any remaining butter and the cream (if using). Season with salt and pepper and add the nutmeg or mace, if desired. Serve.

A flaky suet sponge rolled up with a layer of jam, this is a classic nursery pudding that's stayed a favourite over the past 200 years. A slightly sinful combination of sweet and stodge, made all the more delicious with lashings of custard.

1 1/2 x quantity suet pastry (see below)

225-250g jam of choice

3-4 tbsp fresh breadcrumbs (optional)

1. Make the pastry and leave to chill for 20 minutes before using.

2. Preheat the oven to 180C, ensuring there are two shelves inside it.

3. Roll out the dough on a lightly floured work counter into a rectangle about 30 x 20cm (the longer side being a little shorter than the roasting pan). Using a palette knife, spread the jam evenly over the dough, leaving a 2cm gap around a longer edge and two shorter edges. If the jam is runny, sprinkle with the breadcrumbs. Lightly brush the three edges with the milk, then, starting with the longer edge that's covered in jam nearest to you, firmly roll up the dough away from you like a Swiss roll. Apply pressure on the seal and the ends of the dough so that the jam stays inside.

4. Put a piece of aluminium foil about 40cm long onto the work counter, then heavily grease a piece of baking paper with butter and put it on top of the foil. Transfer the roll onto the paper. Brush the dough with the egg, generously sprinkle with the sugar and wrap gently in the paper, making a pleat along the top, then secure with the foil firmly at the ends.

5. Bring one litre water to the boil and reduce the oven temperature to 160C. Put a 23 x 33cm roasting pan onto the lower shelf of the oven and the roly poly on the top shelf. Quickly and carefully pour the boiling water into the roasting pan and bake for 40-60 minutes. Remove the roly poly from the oven and leave to cool for 10 minutes before unwrapping.

6. Remove the roly poly from the foil and paper, divide it into even portions and serve with hot custard.

This rich, flaky pastry can be used in many savoury British pies or puddings - and a handful of sweet ones too.

200g self-raising flour, sifted, plus extra for dusting

1. Put the flour, salt and suet into a bowl and mix together. Slowly add about 150ml water and mix using a knife until the dough comes together into a ball.

2. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work counter and knead briefly, until it is soft but not sticky to the touch. Cover with clingfilm and leave to chill in the fridge for 20 minutes. Once the dough has chilled, use as required.

I've covered a few things here at The Canberra Times over the years, from sport to education. But now I get to write about the fun stuff - where to eat, what to do, places to go, people to see. Let me know about your favourite things. Email: karen.hardy@canberratimes.com.au

I've covered a few things here at The Canberra Times over the years, from sport to education. But now I get to write about the fun stuff - where to eat, what to do, places to go, people to see. Let me know about your favourite things. Email: karen.hardy@canberratimes.com.au

Sign up for our newsletter to stay up to date.

We care about the protection of your data. Read our Privacy Policy.